Turn the Camellia into a Coat
Learn how to lengthen the Camellia Unlined Jacket pattern and add back darts, so your coat keeps a flattering shape instead of turning boxy.
Before you start
Why add back darts?
The Camellia back has no darts: a cropped jacket doesn't need them. But once you lengthen it to coat length, all that fabric falls straight from the shoulders and the garment looks boxy. Back darts bring the shape back to the waist, so the coat follows your body.
Lengthened only
Straight, boxy silhouette with extra volume at the back.
Lengthened + back darts
The back is shaped at the waist and the coat has a tailored line.
In this tutorial
What You'll Learn
Lengthen the pattern
How to extend the body pieces to the coat length you prefer.
Add back darts
How to draft and sew darts that shape the back at the waist.
What you need
- Camellia Unlined Jacket pattern
- Pattern paper
- Ruler and French curve
- Extra fabric, depending on your chosen length
Want it lined? This tutorial covers lengthening and shaping the pattern. The full lining technique is taught in the Camellia Lined Blazer.
Choose your path
The Camellia patterns
Camellia Unlined Jacket
The base pattern for this tutorial. You'll need it to make the coat.
$15 View pattern →
Camellia Lined Blazer
Learn the full lining technique for your blazer or your coat.
$20 View pattern →
Camellia Complete Bundle
Unlined Jacket + Lined Blazer + Coat Blueprint.
$28 View the bundle →💖 Enjoying this tutorial?
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